Risotto plays an emblematic role in the movie Big Night, a Stanley Tucci masterpiece about two Italian immigrant brothers struggling in NY in the 1960’s as they attempt to honor their craft amid the commercially crass American dining world.  In one of the first scenes, a diner complains about the lovingly prepared, classic seafood risotto because she cannot see any seafood in it.  She has no experience with this creamy rice dish and expects it to feature a protein prominently with the risotto as an afterthought.  She totally fails to appreciate the long and perfect execution of this dish and then asks for a side of spaghetti.  Brother Primo, who is a gifted chef, refuses to serve spaghetti because he says she is a “Philistine”, then hurdles a pot into the corner of the kitchen. 

At this point, it’s appropriate to reflect on who a Philistine might be and why being called one might be an insult.  The Philistines were ancient people, living along the Mediterranean.  Famously, they were the employers of Goliath and his giant brothers in the contest that David won. Calling someone a Philistine was intended as a slur born from tribal rivalries.  However, in modern times it refers to someone who lacks culture and appreciation for finer things, someone who is less evolved—even barbaric. 

This clash of old-world values and modern American commerce is a theme throughout the movie.  So, when I set out to make risotto, I was thinking about how to make risotto the star and protein the best supporting actress.  Keep in mind, I’m a protein-forward person, but I do like to savor tradition and the subtle flavors that are nurtured from careful preparation.

This recipe honors the deeply flavored risotto that Primo cherished with several complementary tasty scallops on top.  Pumpkin has a robust enough flavor that the maple scallop on top does not dominate.  The chard virtually disappears but adds some visual interest and body.  It’s the perfect dish to convert the American meatball-loving diner to a refined Italian food lover.

Serves 2 as a main course

Ingredients

• 1 C arborio or carnaroli rice (risotto rice)
• 2/3 C dry white wine
• 4 C hot chicken stock (keep it hot on top of your stove)
• 1 C small-diced onion
• 2 C chopped Swiss chard, stems minced separately and added in with the onions
• 1-2 t salt to taste
• 1 C roasted pumpkin, rough chopped
• 2 C shredded parmesan or other hard cheese, such as romano or asiago
• 6 scallops (8 oz)
• 1 t red pepper flakes
• Dash cayenne pepper
• Dash of garlic powder
• 2 t maple syrup
• 4 T (or more) butter
• 4 T (or more) EVOO
• 8 nice fresh sage leaves

Method

1. Sauté onion in large pot with 2 T butter and 2 T EVOO.
2. Add the arborio rice (do NOT rinse) and sauté on low until it is well coated and appears to absorb the oil. This may take 5 minutes or so.
3. Add the wine and stir, allowing the rice to absorb it until thickened. Again, 5 minutes or so?
4. Add 1-2 ladles of the hot broth and continue to stir and watch on medium-low heat. Let absorb before adding more broth.
5. Continue to add the broth until the rice is softening.
6. You can start your fried sage now if you like (skip to step 10 below).
7. Add the roasted pumpkin.
8. Continue cooking and adding broth until the rice is soft but still toothsome. This could take 20-30 minutes on the stove.  Keep checking.
9. Then, add the chard and 1 ½ C of the cheese.  Stir to combine.  Add more broth to get right consistency (loose mortar mix).  Take off heat and cover until you are ready to plate.
10. You may want to do this earlier and set aside:  head 3 T EVOO in skillet and fry sage leaves  until just crisp.  Set aside on paper towels and lightly salt.  Save the oil.
11. Salt and season the scallops (patted dry) with salt, garlic powder, and cayenne.  Fry them in the same oil that you fried the sage leaves.  2 minutes on each side, then finish with an additional minute in the pan off the heat.  Drizzle the scallops with the maple syrup.
12. To plate:  ladle the risotto onto a flat plate that you have warmed in the oven.  Swirl and shake it around so that it covers the entire plate surface.  Sprinkle additional cheese on top.  Add the scallops and adorn with the fried sage.  Drizzle any of the accumulated juice from the scallop/syrup back over the scallops on the plated dish.
13. This is also very good with some fried breadcrumbs to garnish.  I did not cover that in this recipe.  See the Caesar Salad post for that touch.

Stay briny,

–Stacey